Inhabited Grounds

Fragments from Sicily and Calabria

I came to Sicily as a stranger, after years spent moving north and across Europe. Inhabited Grounds grows from the disorientation of that arrival and from an attempt to understand Sicily and Calabria through their contradictions: beauty and abandonment, presence and absence, continuity and migration. The project gathers photographic fragments of places that remain inhabited even where human presence has receded, tracing how people alter, occupy, leave, and remember the ground around them.

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I am a stranger in the lands of the South. I moved to Sicily only a few years ago, after a long journey that took me from Tuscany to live in different countries across Europe. For a long time, I thought I would never return to live in Italy, and I had never considered the possibility of moving to this island.

One of the strongest feelings accompanying my process of adjustment to this new reality is a sense of disorientation: an enveloping, pervasive, heavy, romantic, painful disorientation. Sicily and Calabria are extraordinary places, yet also lands of profound contradictions. They are lands of emigration, and here lies a first contradiction, entirely personal, in my own migration against the current, from north to south. Their cities are gradually losing population, following a process that has already affected dozens of towns and villages scattered across the territory and now almost abandoned. These are lands where the beauty of the landscape and the richness of history and culture collide with social, political, and economic marginalisation, with abandonment by the state, and with the peripheralisation of identities and cultures.

Disorientation requires a guide. Like a traveller lost in a forest, one needs to examine where one is, what lies around, and which possible paths may open ahead. This project follows a similar direction. It seeks to examine the lands of Sicily and Calabria in order to understand them better and to bring their contradictions into view while preserving the tensions among them. This is neither a simple nor an obvious operation. On the one hand, I want to avoid any form of documentary approach focused on marginalisation and peripheralisation. Such a romanticising perspective, in some ways akin to Orientalism, would risk diverting the epistemic aims of this research by presenting the South as picturesque because of its backwardness. On the other hand, I also want to avoid turning the project into a kind of tourist guide. Quite the contrary, I hope that the territorial taxidermisation that has transformed large parts of my native land will never reach these places.

The focal point, then, becomes the concept of inhabited grounds: lands that are inhabited and lived in, altered and abandoned, where human action nevertheless remains an essential and constitutive feature even in its absence. The first phase of the project consists in gathering a collection of photographic fragments of these inhabited grounds across Calabria and Sicily. The fragments are arranged rigorously in alphabetical order, suspending any predetermined metanarrative. Messina, of course, occupies a special place. It is the city that welcomed me a few years ago and therefore occupies a privileged place within this photographic research.

As these fragments accumulate, a new phase will reflect on how they may combine with one another, whether they eventually form a mereological unity, like pieces of a puzzle eventually forming a complete image, or whether that unity is simply a mirage and a projection.

A white winged sculpture rises among agave plants before a street filled with cars.

ALCAMO

37.9779° N, 12.9647° E

Caccamo Castle rises above a sheer rocky outcrop, framed by a large pine tree and distant mountains.

CACCAMO

37.9327° N, 13.6650° E

An empty street curves uphill between worn façades and balconies, crossed by a sharp band of sunlight.

CALASCIBETTA

37.5902° N, 14.2718° E

A narrow street in Caltagirone is lined with ornate balconies, while a church dome and bell tower rise above the rooftops.

CALTAGIRONE

37.2379° N, 14.5155° E

A dense pattern of striped umbrellas and empty sun loungers covers the beach.

CEFALÙ

38.0386° N, 14.0228° E

Tilted view of a weathered building with balconies, a wall painting, street lamps and exposed masonry.

COSENZA

39.2989° N, 16.2531° E

Enna stretches along a high ridge beyond a broad rocky outcrop in the foreground.

ENNA

37.5655° N, 14.2743° E

Line of hikers crossing a broad Etna slope, with dark lava fields and distant landscape below.

ETNA

37.7503° N, 14.9947° E

A hillside view of Itala, with a church and bell tower surrounded by densely layered houses and green slopes.

ITALA

38.0514° N, 15.4371° E

Empty restaurant tables and umbrellas stand before the worn façade of a historic building.

MARZAMEMI

36.7423° N, 15.1181° E

Black-and-white street scene of an elderly woman walking with a shopping trolley in front of sunlit residential façades and balconies.

MESSINA

38.1939° N, 15.5526° E

Morano spreads across a steep hillside beneath its church and ruined castle, backed by high mountain peaks.

MORANO

39.8414° N, 16.1384° E

Mount Etna rises behind the tiled roofs and dark volcanic-stone buildings of Nicolosi.

NICOLOSI

37.6215° N, 15.0279° E

Novara di Sicilia fills a mountain valley, with tiled roofs and a tall church tower surrounded by wooded slopes.

NOVARA DI SICILIA

38.0154° N, 15.1313° E

Ornate Baroque windows and balconies project from a rough stone façade.

Ragusa

36.9257° N, 14.7244° E

Small weathered church with a bell and cross, framed by a modern building and a partially collapsed tiled roof.

SAVOCA

37.9533° N, 15.3401° E

Horizontal street view toward pale stone church buildings, framed by balconies, rooftops, wires, and a hanging streetlamp.

SCICLI

36.7901° N, 14.7028° E

Fragments in progress: Frascineto, Palermo, Scilla.